A family affair behind the State Fair’s fare: Sisters serve up creative new dishes

The State Fair wouldn’t be the State Fair without food.

Of course, attendees can munch on classics like corn dogs and funnel cake, as well as more unique options such as deep fried pho or deep fried cherry pie… or a deep fried Fireball shot? A lot of fried food, basically.

Well, one of the staples of fair food in Texas is Nevins Concessions. The company has stands all across the fair, and it’s been on site since 1949, making this the 75th year – fourth generation of Nevins who have sold food at the Texas State Fair.

Josey Nevins-Mayes and Cheyne Hickey, sisters who grew up in the Nevins family business, are among that new generation.

Nevins-Mayes now co-owns Nevins Concessions with her mom, while Hickey owns her own stand, Stay Cheesy by Lil Red.

Nevins-Mayes says the Nevins Concession story started with her great-grandfather.

“He started out here in 1949 with two concession stands,” Nevins-Mayes said. “He and my grandpa built it up to over 30 locations. We had over 30 locations out here until about the mid 80s.”

It was around that time that the State Fair put a cap on how many concessions a concessionaire could have. So Nevins-Mayes’ grandfather and his brother split the business.

“My grandpa took the food, and his brother is the cotton candy man. He owns all the cotton candy stands out here,” Nevins-Mayes said. “My mom took over in the late 80s. She became my grandpa’s partner. And then in 2022, I graduated from college and I joined my mom as her partner.”

Hickey says she has many good memories of the fair, though with their business being such a family affair, it did always mean a lot of hard work.

“You know, it was always fair day,” Hickey said. “You get tickets from your school, and all my friends would come out here in their riding rides, and it was just an extra day that we had to work.

We didn’t get to go have fun. We had to work. But you know, looking back, I wouldn’t have it any other way.”

» FROM KERA NEWS: Here’s your guide to what to see, do and eat at the 2024 State Fair of Texas

Among the fare Nevins Concessions is offering at the fair: the Nutty Bar-laska – a concoction consisting of a Nutty bar topped with toasted marshmallow, two Oreos, strawberry sauce and freeze-dried strawberry pieces.

Texas Standard was able to try some of the dish, which was 2024 Big Tex Award finalist.

“This is legal in Texas? This is amazing,” host David Brown said, upon sampling the treat.

But to balance with the sweet, Hickey shared something from her gourmet grilled cheese business – a new creation she described as “pizza grilled cheese.”

“You can’t go wrong with pizza and grilled cheese,” Hickey said. “So you have your fresh mozzarella marinara, pepperonis, fresh basil leaves…”

Find Nevins Concessions, Stay Cheesy by Lil Red, and other State Fair offerings here.

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